Al Pastor vs Adobada

Thin-sliced pork shoulder marinated in a red paste of dried chiles, achiote (annatto), vinegar, pineapple juice and spices, stacked on a vertical spit called a trompo, roasted, and shaved off as the outer layer chars. Served on small corn tortillas with a little of the charred pork, chopped onion, cilantro, a piece of pineapple and salsa.

Both are pork, but the method is opposite. Carnitas is pork confited, simmered in its own fat until soft, then crisped. Al pastor is marinated pork roasted on a vertical spit and shaved. Carnitas tastes of pork and fat; al pastor tastes of chile, achiote and pineapple.

Mild. The marinade is built on guajillo and ancho chiles for colour and depth (not heat), and the pineapple adds sweetness. Any real heat comes from the salsa roja served alongside.

Savoury and slightly sweet, with a smoky char from the spit, an earthy warmth from achiote and dried chile, tang from vinegar and pineapple, and crisp edges on the shaved pork.

A chunk of pineapple usually sits on top of the trompo, dripping juice onto the meat as it cooks. It adds sweetness and acidity, its enzymes help tenderise the pork, and a little is chopped onto the finished taco. Its origin is Lebanese shawarma, brought to Puebla by Middle Eastern immigrants; the vertical spit is the giveaway.